Before heading out for a day's work, the deminers and EOD men gather every morning to drink coffee at a downtown Pristina bar called The Kukri. By 8 a.m. a festive crowd has gathered, and you could easily be in some college town cappuccino bar, except that half the people in the room are wearing U.N. shoulder patches and automatic pistols. On this particular autumn morning, the Texas Rangers are having coffee with the Fijians, the Bobbies are raking tea with some carabinieri, and the Zambians are talking shop with the OPP. It's sunny again, and everyone seems to be in fine spirits, despite the sulphurous coal smoke drifting across the patio where the men are drinking their coffee.



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